The Taj Mahal, the magnificent mausoleum that dominates the horizon of the sky in Agra with its white marble facade, stands as a testament of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan's love for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. But if you look a little closer to home, a similarly enduring symbol of love, loss, and longing, can be found hidden in the most unexpected place, only if you know the history baked into the delicate layers of bakorkhani.
Although expressed through two very different mediums – marble and flour – both are cultural touchstones rooted in the emotional and aesthetic entangle of the Mughal imagination.
Today, when people think of Old Dhaka's vibrant food scene, it is impossible for the mind to not wander to the thought of bakarkhani, a crisp, layered flatbread which makes the perfect companion for a cup of tea.
More than that, bakhorkhani serves as a kind of edible archive, evolving from a staple delicacy at Mughal feasts to a marker of refined taste for Old Dhaka's aristocracy by the 19th century. As Dhaka urbanised, it made its way into the hands of skilled street vendors and small bakeries, quickly becoming a beloved symbol of the old city's identity.
By tracing the history of this simple snack, one can find reflections of shifts in power, class, and urban life.
Today, the delicacy has become widespread.
Emraan Hossain, a content creator, singer and avid foodie, told Dhaka Stream that the taste and cooking process vary widely from region to region.
"I have tried many different types of bakarkhani, but the one from Nawabganj stands out due to its unique flavor," he said.
"In Dohar, six out of 10 villages are involved in the bakarkhani-making process. Some versions are salty, others sweet, and some even include vegetables or cheese," Emran added.
Presently, different varieties of bakarkhani are available across the country, tinged with regional tastes, and, indeed, throughout the sub-continent.
But look beyond its veneer as a cultural touchstone, and the story of bakhorkhani somehow becomes even more fantastical. What stands out today as a simple snack was once a symbol of love and devotion mired in deep tragedy.
How love became a taste of history
Nazir Hossain wrote about the tragic backstory behind the birth of the bakorkhani in his book titled "Kingbodontir Dhaka."
The book recounts how Mirza Aga Bakar Khan, originally from Turkey, became a military commander in the ranks of Murshid Quli Khan, the first Nawab of Bengal. In time, owing to his bravery and skill, Bakar rose through the ranks.
At some point, he found himself enamoured with a famous performer, Khani Begum, who reciprocated those feelings.
But he was not the only one vying for her affections.
Zainul Khan, a kotwal (chief police officer) and the son of Jahandar Khan, a high-ranking member of Murshid Quli Khan's court, also had his heart set on Khani Begum.
Since there were no witnesses willing to testify, there are differing opinions on what happened next.
The most popular legend goes that Zainul abducted Khani Begum to lay a trap for Bakar. Moments after Bakar rescued her, he ran into Jainul and his police team.
However, while most believe Zainul escaped that encounter unharmed, rumors spread that Bakar had killed him and hidden the body.
Despite a lack of witnesses and evidence, at Murshid Quli Khan's court, Bakar Khan was sentenced to death in cruel fashion: he would be caged together with a hungry tiger.
But Bakar Khan's passion burned so fiercely that even a pouncing tiger proved inadequate; he conquered the animal and walked out.
Unfortunately, during his absence from the outside world, Jainul had returned to kidnap Khani Begum.
When Bakar found out, he rushed to rescue her in a deep forest in South East Bengal Chandradwip, somewhere along modern-day Barishal, with the help of General Kala Gazi.
When Zainul realised that he had no chance of survival, he plunged his sword into Khani Begum's chest and fled. By the time Bakar Khan arrived, he saw his beloved on death's door.
Heartbroken, Bakar decided to settle in the same area. Later, he became the zamindar of Umedpur. He controlled Selimabad and Chandradwip. In 1977, during British rule, Bakerganj, now an upazila in Barishal, was named after him.
Although he later married, Bakar never forgot Khani Begum. In her memory, he commissioned local bakers to craft a delicacy, naming it 'Bakar-Khani', eternally joining their names together.
Over time, this name moulded into bakarkhani.
After rapidly gaining fame in Dhaka, it began to be sent to other parts of Bengal as a special gift.
Although Bakar was killed in a battle by conspirators in 1754, his confectionery invention could not be slowed.
In Bangladesh, West Bengal and Kashmir, bakorkhani became a cultural staple.
As Bakarkhani travelled, it also evolved. In some areas, it's a round flatbread filled with cheese, dried fruits, or sweets. In others, it's prepared with clarified butter and even resembles a biscuit in taste and texture.
Mashrur Enan, a Bangladesh-based content creator popularly known as 'Keto Bhai', told Dhaka Stream that regions like Barishal, Chuadanga, and Narsingdi are well-known for their diverse and flavorful variations of Bakarkhani.
But for the one who came up with the idea, every variety carries the same name, and, behind it, the same story.
It is an idea that goes beyond simply enduring grief. Rather, it is about shaping that sadness into ever-lasting beauty, united by the Mughal ethos where even the pain of separation is worthy of being immortalised.
While the Taj Mahal remains frozen in time, bakorkhani is alive. The unique confection is layered like Bakar and Khani's love, flaky from sorrow, and sweetened by longing.
Every time it is baked, bought, or eaten alongside a cup of tea, the story of love and longing is retold, re-experienced, and made part of a living heritage.
Their love may not have been for this world, yet, it is in this world where it continues to endure.
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